In God we trust. Everybody else must report data
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| 0.25" diameter hole |
In round numbers, it took 8 minutes to drain.
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| On the second run, it occurred to me that I could reuse the water, so I captured it for the third run. |
Then I enlarged the hole to 11/32" diameter (0.34" or about 8.5mm). It took about 4 minutes for 4 gallons to drain out.
Then I repeated the experiment with TWO, 11/32" diameter holes. It took 2 minutes for 4 gallons to drain.
Since my "turn around time" for a 200-foot round-trip is optimistically 65 seconds, a 2 minute drain time means I can work with a four-bucket rotation. If I start with the longer legs then I will have some "rest-time" near the end of the task because I will be able to cover the shorter distances in less time than it takes for the senior buckets to drain.
The reason for the wonky diameter is because I have several drill bits this size.
Decrepit buckets
It is a shame to drill holes in beautiful buckets, even if they smell like pickles. I need to scout around the property and see if I can find three old, beat-up ones.
Weeding update
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| I forget that I am a blogger when I am going full-throttle. Consequently, I forgot to take pictures until the middle-row was mostly weeded. |
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| Two rows |
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| Three rows. |
It remains to be seen how many of the weeds I uprooted turn brown. I will undoubtedly have to make more passes through the planting to tidy it up. But at least I can SEE the seedlings. And if I can see them, they can see the sun.
I tentatively identified one of the weeds I was pulling as Artemisia vulgaris. I don't know how it got here, but it sure likes to spread.
Our dump/recycling center has ‘still good’ items piled up. Lots of household stuff, but also tools, planters, and sometimes buckets or shelf racks. We grab anything useful.
ReplyDeleteSouthern NH
What hole size is optimal for soak-in, rather than run-off?
ReplyDeleteTwo minutes soak-in time is longer than I wait when hand-dispensing individually with a bucket.
DeleteThe last time I watered, I used a shovel to make a divot beside each tree to minimize run-off.
Besides permeability of the native soil, contour and compacting can have a large impact on how quickly the water soaks in.
Another factor involves amendments with organic materials and how active the worms are.
A lot of words to say "It depends, but I think I am going to be OK".
One more thought. Soil that is extremely dry at the surface repels water. Soil that is slightly damp (even if not visibly so) is much more permeable. Another reason to not let the soil beneath a newly planted tree or bush to get too dry
DeleteI've used the technique before, but only where I was filling with a hose, not toting full buckets. I found the best size for a slow, steady soak was 1/8", and obviously this took quite a while to empty. But it seemed to be to the best benefit for deeply penetrating water, and I would move the bucket around the sapling on subsequent buckets. I was trying to imitate those 'tree gators', the bladders that encircle the tree and weep out the water slowly.
DeleteThe written word is not friendly to nuance.
DeleteI do not want to imply that anything you do is less than optimal. In fact, since nearly all of my readers are darned smart people, I am willing to bet that what you do is optimal for your conditions.
My soil is sandy-loam. It usually absorbs water rapidly and the wet-spot tends toward narrow-and-deep.
In the south, the soils tend more towards red, gritty, weathered laterite "clay" soils. In drier areas, they grade into caliche soils. Both of these soil families tend toward wet-spots that are wide-and-shallow.
Through experience and keen observation, you figured this out. If what you do works, it ain't wrong.
I salute you.
-ERJ
Also, re:buckets - if you have active home construction in your area, then contractors normally buy paint and mud by the gray 5-gallon bucketful, and normally they'll just give them to you, as they're being discarded as trash. The buckets I use for fire tending - I station full buckets around the perimeters of my brush burns for easy grabbing if needed - were all free buckets
ReplyDeleteBe careful what buckets you grab lest you get undesirable residue on your ground. Some soaps and most oils would be unhealthy for plants.
ReplyDeleteTrue @FredLewers. The benefit of paint buckets is that you can let it dry completely and then peel it out.
DeleteHumping buckets two at a time for two hundred feet works for young old men, Joe. Take it from an old old man that another run of hose, or two would hasten the delivery time between humps, and lighten the human work factor. Then orchard watering might even be permissible on a Day of Rest. Peace.
ReplyDeleteMilton
Agree with Anon on this one...
ReplyDeletefor a fella spending energy and time on this ongoing project, perhaps a capital investment is in order. Think IBC tote on a small trailer and 12 V battery, pump and hose.
ReplyDeleteFill Holy (holey?) buckets for a slow drip. Having that capability may be a time or energy saver for when Bad Things Happen and you still wanna keep your sunk costs (baby trees) productive.